Destination: A Memorial in Rwanda

Hello Rwanda!  Rwanda is my newest African country - yes, it is my first time in Rwanda.  The weather is quite nice, the streets of Kigali are clean and the city is actually very quiet.  Even when I passed by a bar or am at the pool bar in the hotel, there is never any music blasting, people hanging out and cheering with large cold mugs of the local beer or dancing.  I soon came to find out why the streets were so quiet, the people so distant and "lights out" was early.

April 6 marked the 18th anniversary of the beginning of the genocide here in Rwanda.  April, is therefore,  the country's mourning period.  The "pretty" purple billboards, which I did not understand because the message is written in the local language, are actually billboards in the color of mourning (purple) and remind the people of Rwanda to remember the genocide ...

In 1994, Rwanda’s population of seven million was composed of three ethnic groups: Hutu (approximately 85%), Tutsi (14%) and Twa (1%).  The number of lives lost during the 100 days of this horrific event is estimated between 800,000 - 1.2M.  If we take the "average" we get an estimated 1M people who lost their lives in 100 days.  That is 1/7 of the entire country's population ... approximately 10,000 people a day. 

During the month of April businesses tend to close early so that people can be with their family to remember and / or attend church or remembrance gatherings.  Wearing purple during this time is as a sign of respect in remembrance of those who lost their lives.  Purple is not only the color of mourning but also represents HOPE.  HOPE that even though so many lost their lives in those 100 days it provides survivors HOPE of unity and reconciliation amongst all Rwandans.  Bars will not blast jovial music, it will be somber and ex-pats will probably be drinking alone or amongst themselves.  Movies and speeches of remembrance will be seen / heard every evening throughout all parts of the countries.  Where lives were lost you will find bouquets of purple flowers.  Entire families were lost so it will be up to their friends and neighbors to keep their memory alive.  Some bodies, while found, were so unrecognizable that families may never have closure since identification is impossible.   Memorial sites will be visited by those who wish to remember, honor their loved one.  You can understand why the country becomes so quiet, the people so distant.  They are remembering, they are mourning and the emotional scars are still present.

My colleague and I visited one such memorial site:  Ntarama (http://www.rwandanstories.org/genocide/ntarama_church.html),

Previous to the genocide, in times of disruption between the Hutu and Tutsi, Tutsi elders, women and children were safe in the neighborhood church. They brought food, supplies and waited for the next moment of peace when they could return to their homes. However, on April 15, 1994 an "exception" was made. This church was invaded and everyone who thought they were safe were killed. Approximately 5,000 lost their life by means of machete, guns, grenades, fire or being thrown against a brick wall. I never thought this much hate was even possible, let alone to see the evidence of it with my own eyes...

To memorialize the church they did nothing.  Walls blown in by grenades still stand, damaged.

Wind still blows through the stain glass windows which were blown out by gunfire.

A blood stain covers a large portion of a wall in the Bible study room where babies and small children were killed by throwing them head first into that very wall.  Burnt remnants of supplies, notebooks, mattresses, shoes and clothes lie on a floor of the room that was burned down.  The garden which now beautifies the memorial served as a graveyard for those who tried to run for their lives and were killed.

Tattered clothes and shoes can be found "decorating" the main room of the church in which you will also find approximately 300 skulls which still tell the story of how lives came to end:  evidence of bullet and spear holes and even the tip of a machete are still seen in the skull.  

Coffins which serve as the final resting place for dozens are draped in purple and lace, adorned with crosses, can also be found in this room.  After visiting that memorial I now understand why it is so quiet here in Rwanda (I am staying in Kigali).  It is "different" for a social person such as myself but I am glad to have experienced this moment in this country.  I spend my evenings and weekends quietly.  No dancing.  No happy hours.  No karaoke.  I spend a lot of quiet time reading, learning more about the genocide, talking to my loved ones, letting them know how much I love, miss them, learning new words and phrases in French (another French speaking country!) and watching movies on Movie Magic 1, Bible Mysteries on National Geographic or Nigerian soap operas on MNET (I have been reunited with Tinsel haha).  It has been 10 days of reflection, understanding and mental relaxation.  I have enjoyed a massage since my arrival, had my hair done for $50 (this included tip) and plan to get a body wrap this weekend (first time!).  Unfortunately, I will not be able to get a permit in time to see the gorillas.  Perhaps this will be on the list when I am blessed enough to visit Rwanda for a second time.

If you are ever in Rwanda, take the time, take a day to visit the memorials, silent, in reflection.  Out of respect for the average of 1M people that lost their lives in the country's genocide.  Also, take the time to enjoy the people, the food, the sights and if you can make it, the gorillas!