Sunday, June 16, 2013

Destination: Uganda, “The Pearl of Africa”



From our hotel, each morning as we sip our fresh squeezed juice, eat croissant and fruit we stare into a beautiful, serene view.  If you did not know the history of Kampala, you would not realize that the water tanks seen in the view were used by Idi Amin to drown many of his victims.  Unfortunately, when you say “Uganda” many think of the 8 years of terror inflicted upon the people by Idi Amin.  It is said approximately 300,000 people were killed during this time: farmers, students, clerks, cabinet ministers, Supreme Court judges, diplomats, university rectors, educators, prominent churchmen, hospital directors, surgeons, bankers, tribal leaders, business executives and shopkeepers who were shot, drowned in water towers or forced to bludgeon one another to death by members of death squads.   
View of water tanks in Kampala

But with its location in close proximity to the Nile River, remarkable weather, entertaining nightlife, a variety of places to dine and a rich cultural heritage, Uganda has a lot to offer those in country for work and/or fun.  

Uganda is a landlocked country in East Africa bordered on the west by Congo, on the north by the Sudan, on the east by Kenya, and on the south by Tanzania and Rwanda.  After a visit in the early 1900s, Sir Winston Churchill described Uganda “the Pearl of Africa.”  And with stunning green valleys, vast lakes, tall mountains and a high altitude which gives it a cooler climate than other places on the equator, one can understand why.  This week the weather has been ideal with temperatures reaching high 70s in the day (no humidity) and low 70s, high 60s at night.  

I arrived Monday night, June 10.  After traveling over 24 hours the first thing I wanted to do was take a hot shower.  I was beyond impressed with the hotel ‘room’ at the Royal Suites in Kampala.  The ‘room’ is actually a one bedroom apartment with a full kitchen, a small balcony, a bathroom with tub and shower.  On the premises is a restaurant, bar, swimming pool, gym and spa.  And for $15 you can enjoy a one hour massage.  Add another $5 for an extra 30 minutes!  Overall, with a rate of $150/night the Royal Suites is reasonably priced and located in a quiet location surrounded by foreign aid offices, warehouses and restaurants.  
Welcome to the Royal Suites





Saturday my colleagues and I were joined by friends and attended a soccer game:  Uganda vs. Angola.  It was a qualifier game for the World Cup 2014.   The stadium was crowded, fans were passionate and desperate to see their team win.  The first half did NOT look good for Uganda with the half ending Uganda – 0, Angola – 1.  But with less than 15 minutes to go in the second half Uganda hit one and then TWO goals guaranteeing the win! Needless to say it was quite exciting.  We cheered, jumped, danced, some men took their shirts off, some men sprayed neighboring fans with beer and soda but all (with the exception of Angola fans) were celebrating the unexpected (based on the performance in the first half) victory.


My colleague and I before the match

The final score:  Uganda - 2, Angola - 1.

On our way out we joined the crowd on the streets walking briskly to our car witnessing dancing in the street, waving of the Ugandan flag and then out of nowhere I look to my right as man is running after another man claiming the latter has his wallet.  Seconds later someone ran up to me and grabbed my water bottle and camera out of my hand.  I turned and screamed “He has my camera!”  But he didn’t.  A friend accompanying us to the game had been behind me and snatched the camera out of the would be thief’s hands.  I was shaken and later realized I was wounded with a cut on my left hand.   

My "I was almost mugged" wound
Everywhere I have been, the countries I have seen, the cities I have explored, the alley ways in London I have walked, the streets of Paris  I have strolled, the sidewalks in DC I have stumbled on with fellow female friends after a night out at a restaurant or bar, the exhausted moments on the street while hailing of a cab after dancing until 6am in Cote d'Ivoire ... but it was here, in Uganda, in the midst of a celebration, I was almost mugged!  In the car on the way back to the hotel I sat silent thinking “how unfortunate…”  Exhausted from the day’s events I enjoyed a drink and homecooked meal prepared by my colleague and by 10p I retired to my apartment, took a hot shower, poured glass of Amarula, tucked myself in and read a book.  This upcoming week will be filled with working hard in the day, eating good at night and preparing myself (mentally) for rafting in Jinja.  But that is another blog entry … stay tuned and enjoy the photos taken my first week in Uganda, the Pearl of Africa.
Typical 'taxi' here in Kampala - "borda borda"

 
Traffic is a worldwide issue ...

Tin rooftop view

In the 'Soweto Slum' which is behind our hotel

City view


Another view in the Pearl of Africa.