The Wine & Cheese of South Africa

After spending weeks in South Africa and a few lovely days in Cape Town, I would be amiss if I neglected to post an entry about the wine and cheese of South Africa.

On this trip I visited the FAIRVIEW WINE FARM:

 

 

Fairview is a third generation, family owned wine and cheese farm, on the south-west-facing slopes of Paarl Mountain, in the heart of the Paarl wine district of South Africa. It is located 45 minutes from Cape Town.

While we were here we had the privilege of a "Master Tasting" (Thanks Spruge!).  The tasting offered 8 wines paired perfectly with 8 cheeses, all of which were made on the farm.  To cleanse our palates between tastings we were offered fresh bread and a variety of olive oil, also delicious!

While they offered 8, I will discuss my favorite four pairings: 

4.  2011 Fairview Riesling paired with fresh cream cheese rolled in sweet chili powder.  This pairing was literally a party in my mouth!  Anyone who knows me knows I am not a white wine fan but this pairing made me a huge fan!  The wine was very fruity, offering hints of pear and peaches.  On its own, it was very refreshing - perfect for a warm day.  But when you took a bite of the cheese, allowed that to melt on your tongue and took a second sip of wine the flavors intensified!  The hint of sweet heat on the creamy cheese provided an outlet for the underlying citrus flavors in the wine.  It.was.amazing.  

3.  Fairview Jakkalsfontein Shiraz (2005) paired with Blue Rock cheese.  This pairing was perfect for a social gathering.  A nice, full-bodied, spicy red wine with an equally strong cheese.  Paired with the bread and olive oil it was quite a snack! Needless to say I procured this wine which I enjoyed with my mother during the 36 hours I was home.

2.  Fairview Eenzaamheid Shiraz (2006) also paired with Blue Rock cheese.  This pairing is also very  perfect for a social gathering.  A nice, medium-bodied, nutty red wine with a fruity aroma.  It also goes very well with this strong blue cheese made on the farm.  I had a hard time choosing between this and the Jakkalsfontein Shiraz but I ultimately chose the Jakkalsfontein because I do love a full-bodied wine!

 #1.  I saved the best for last.  The pairing that literally made a tear fall from my left eye:  The Primo Vintage Pinotage (2009) and the goats milk cheese rolled in fresh garlic and herbs.  The wine, perfectly described by the website, was a limited vintage with only 300 bottles put on the market.  This wine, "...offers intense cherry and perfumed violet on the nose, with underlying notes of smoky oak and sweet spice. Ripe plum and spice on the palate with a firm structure worthy of time in the bottle. This wine will only get better with time" is, for me, the perfect wine.  It was only intensified after allowing the succulent goats milk cheese which was rolled in fresh garlic and herbs to melt on my tongue.  The strong flavors offered on this creamy cheese brought out the sweet spices in the wine.  While the cheese alone may be overpowering, with the wine it becomes soft, delicious and perfect.  Coupled with the bread and olive oil this pairing would be the center of any social gathering.  The hostess sadly informed me that with only 300 bottles on the market the only bottle remaining was the one on display.  After some pleading and pulling out the "...but I came all the way from the United States and I have to have this bottle of wine ..." she sold me the display bottle.  I may have "fallen" for the "it is the last bottle" but I do not care.  I cannot wait to slowly sip this wine in the comforts of my home after a long day at work or on a plane.

If you are ever in Cape Town and can only visit one wine farm THIS is the wine farm you MUST visit!  The prices are reasonable for the master tasting (approximately $9.50), the grounds are gorgeous, the atmosphere in the tasting room is sexy, inviting, relaxing and the staff know their wine!  Enjoy!

His Perfect Timing

Remember me, the Titaness – Phoebe

I am strong, bright, stubborn and marred.

So it required a blessed man to have the vision to see me.

A patient, strong-willed warrior

To rise above the inferior.

And blessed man, thank God ... you have found me.

In His perfect time,

In the Cradle of Mankind --

Where true love first begin

Your eyes met mine.

And all of this time,

Being reared 20 minutes apart,

It is for you, I now realize, He protected the secret place of my heart.

You did not know you were in search of me

And I did not know it was meant to be.

And a year later, the strangers who met, coincidentally, in Addis are now “we.”

Individually, my name is Phoebe – I am a Titaness

And you, William, are my Warrior.

And by Him we have been perfected to love one another.

Celebrating 1 year "anniversary" of meeting William Truss Jr.

Written March 11, 2012

 

Our first photo together, July 4, 2011

 

 

Me and my "Drummer Boy"

Destination: Soweto, South Africa

Welcome to Soweto.  Soweto may sound like an African name, but the word was originally an acronym for "South Western Townships".  Townships for Blacks under apartheid.  Soweto is the most heavily populated Black urban residential area in the country, with over two million citizens!  Yes ... over 2 million Blacks living, working, playing, being educated and growing together.  It is even home to one of the largest hospitals on the continent ( Chris Hani Baragwanath Hospital) and the only African-owned private clinic! 

To visit this township, to feel and see the historical sites dedicated to a child who lost his life in the Soweto student uprising (Hector Pieterson) and the homes of historical figures such as Desmond Tutu and Nelson Mandela.  To look out and see the colorful, homes, shacks and streets which were home to so many Blacks who were a part of the fight against apartheid ... and to see the new generations who are blessed enough to live and see the results of the fight of their ancestors ... it does not just touch you, it moves you.  It was their Civil Rights Movement and it would start in Soweto.  Their voices, their tears, their blood, their sacrifice - ultimately a country's freedom. 

 

When visiting Soweto there are at least three things you must do, which we were fortunate to accomplish today:

#1.  Visit the Apartheid Museum.  It is en route, located in Johannesburg, and is a must see!  It illustrates the rise and fall of apartheid and the temporary exhibit walks visitors throughout the life of Nelson Mandela.  The cost to enter is 55 ZAR.  

#2.  Visit the Mandela House.  Located at 8115 Orlando West, on the corner of Vilakazi and Ngakane streets in Soweto.  The home was built in 1945 and was the home to Nelson Mandela and his first and second wives and his children.  The home is only 4 rooms and gives a small, personal insight to how Nelson Mandela lived before being sent to Robbin Island.  The cost for those not from the continent of Africa is 60 ZAR. 

"The wife of a freedom fighter is often like a widow..." Winnie Mandela

He was only "home" for 11 days until his new found publicity forced him to move.

#3.  Visit the Hector Pieterson Memorial.  June 1976, on the corner of Moema and Vilakazi Streets in Soweto, a 12-year old lost his life in the fight for freedom.  He was picked up by his brother - he and his sister ran to a nearby clinic where the 12-year old was pronounced dead.  His name was Hector Pieterson and he became the symbol for the youth who fought and sacrificed during the Soweto uprisings.  

"To honor the youth who gave their lives in the struggle for freedom."

Ultimately, it was an emotionally exhausting day.  But everyone was glad to have experienced the journey.  If you ever make it to South Africa, make the time to visit the historical township of Soweto.

Destination: Pretoria, South Africa

Since October 2009, every six months I have held USG Procurement training in this gorgeous capital city.  Pretoria is approximately 40 minutes from the international airport located in Johannesburg.  The “easiest” or I should say, most direct flight, is a 17 hour flight from Washington DC – Johannesburg with a one hour “stop” in Dakar to clean and re-fill the airplane. 

Pretoria, compared to Johannesburg, is a quiet city and very slow paced.  When I first arrived in Pretoria in 2009 I fell completely in love with the Jacaranda trees which line the suburban streets.  They are absolutely gorgeous and it allows those who walk these streets to enjoy the lightly perfumed air.  Interestingly, my allergies are not affected by these and so even I am allowed to breathe in deeply as I walk to my destination in Pretoria.  

Nightlife:  Pretoria is home to the University of Pretoria so this does allow for some absolutely fun nightlife!  The most popular is located in Hatfield.  Hatfield Square is literally a square that once you enter you realize in the front, back, to the right and to the left there are bars, one main club, cheap fast eateries, restaurants and then more bars which have a dance floor.  You can come as you are to Hatfield Square!  No need to dress up – shorts and flip flops are fine regardless of where you decide to go in this square.  The other benefit is you can go from one establishment to another taking your drinks with you!   

"3 Cheeky Monkeys please!"

My favorite places to go is The Cheeky Monkey which boast of this delicious drink with the same name.  It’s pretty much a “Hatfield Ice Tea” with the base liquors being:  gin, vodka, white rum, tequila for the.  Then add:  blue curacao, grenadine and top off with sprite or lemon/lime soda.  It’s served in a plastic fishbowl with colorful straws for sharing or you can have one served in a glass just for you!  As for dancing, my favorite place is The Drop Zone.  The music is superb but the dancing is underwhelming by kids dressed in 80s clothing.  But I always find a spot on the dance floor and sweat the night away!  They are also known for their “foam parties.”  With my “Black hair” I avoid these parties at all costs!  Outside of “the square” is News Café which is a great place to watch a football or rugby game, socialize, listen to music, as well as enjoy good food and strong drink.  Finally, if you are looking for a more upscale and older crowd combined with three levels of dance floors and an outside bar/lounge then Zanzu is the place for you!  There is an entrance fee and dress code but as I said, great variety of music is provided on each floor (hip/hop, top 40, dance/house and cultural /local music). 

Shopping:  If you are into shopping then you absolutely MUST visit Menlyn Mall.  This mall is HUGE and offers a variety of shops from all over the world!  There is also a movie theater and my favorite restaurant is located in this mall!  There is also a Galaxy / Arcade room with a bowling alley.  The balls are a little banged up but the atmosphere is fun and there is a full bar in the Arcade.

Live sporting events:  Then of course there is Loftus Stadium which was built for the 2010 World Cup!  It is at this stadium that my boss introduced our participants and myself to rugby!  I have been a fan ever since of this uber masculine sport and cheer for the South African Springboks (since I am so familiar with the country) and the New Zealand All Blacks (um HELLO the name haha not to mention they have some HOT men on the team AND their introduction ~ the dance ~ could it be any sexier?!) … clearly I’m into rugby for the lust factor LOL

The group at Loftus Stadium cheering for the BLUE BULLS

GO BLUE BULLS!

Food and Drink:  Anyha, where were we ~ ah yes, next we move onto the food.  Pretoria has SO many great places to eat!  Things you MUST eat when you are in South Africa:  oxtail, trinchado, curry, springbok, prawns, boar and even ostrich!  A for beverages, Pinotage, cheeky monkey (as mentioned above) and a cool Dom Pedro (nougat flavored milkshake spiked with Irish whiskey and then topped with a chocolate swirl.  You can request your favorite alcoholic beverage.  My favorite being Stroh rum) are a must try! 

Dom Pedro with stroh rum

Since I know what I like, I know where to go and the following restaurants are my favorite because they have the most delicious menus!  I will list them in order of my favorite:

#1 is Baobab.  Located in Menlyn Mall on the top floor this restaurant is by far my favorite!  The décor is magnificent offering roots of baobab trees strung with small white lights, dark furniture and cream colored, leather booths.  Not only is the food delicious but the portions are generous and the prices are reasonable.   For an appetizer (spicy trinchado served with baguettes), main meal (oxtail served with rice and veggies) with wine (pinotage) finished dessert (dom pedro) to include tip I pay an average of 230 ZAR which is approximately $33.    In my opinion they are #1 in food, service and in Dom Pedros!

Smothered rump with rice and veggies

Oxtail

#2 is Café 41.  This restaurant is in walking distance of our hotel and the US Embassy.  Its menu boasts of light fare, vegan delights, Grecian traditional food, simple sandwiches and delicious desserts.  The service is good but since all food is made to order the wait time can be long.  Allot 3 hours to eat at this restaurant.  My favorite thing to eat at this restaurant is the chicken schnitzel with a greek salad (cucumbers, feta and olives topped with olive oil and vinegar) and potato croquettes.  Of course I wash this all down with a generous portion of pinotage and dessert is a Dom Pedro made with Stroh rum.  On average my meal costs 140 ZAR which is approximately $20.  

Beef kababs with potato croquettes and greek salad

#3 is Kream.  Classy!  This is great date restaurant!  Located in Brooklyn (a neighborhood of Pretoria) the atmosphere is upscale, the wine list is extensive and the food is obviously prepared and arranged with an attention to detail.  Here I normally enjoy a warm brie parcel (Brie, sun dried tomatoes and basil wrapped in phyllo, deep fried and served with maroela jelly sauce) for my starter, followed by a delicious trinchado served with rice and spinach with dessert being … a Dom Pedro made with Stroh rum.  Because the wine is so good at this location I upgrade my pinotage option and then have two glasses of this which I sip slowly from the first bite of the appetizer to the last bite of the main meal.  The portions here are also generous and a takeaway box will be necessary.  On average I also pay 250 ZAR, approximately $33, per dining experience.

Trinchado with rice and spinach

#4 is The Restaurant at The Villas Hotel.  Finally, the hotel which we frequent due to the amazing hospitality, comparative costs and comfy rooms is The Villas Hotel.  Located in Pretoria, directly across the street from the US Embassy has a great menu and delicious food!  My two favorite things off their menu are the chicken curry made medium spicy and the grilled ham and cheese on wheat.  Both are made PERFECTLY and satisfy my Indian food and home away from home food cravings.  With the curry I enjoy their blended house red wine (you really cannot go wrong with red wine in this country).  With the grilled ham and cheese I enjoy a cold and refreshing Black Label beer – a Pale Lager beer by South African Breweries (SABMiller), a brewery in South Africa.  My chicken curry meal + wine is 120 ZAR which is approximately $17 and I always have left overs for lunch the next day.  My grilled ham and cheese luxury is 60 ZAR which is approximately less than $8.  

My room at The Villas Hotel

From another angle - The Villas Hotel

I encourage everyone to save the money and venture to this wonderful country and city of Pretoria.  You will eat, drink and be plenty merry in Pretoria, the city of the Jacaranda.