Destination Kampala, Uganda: Places to eat, dance and generally have fun!

Happy New Year!  Well it has been a while.  And my sole excuse is WORK WORK WORK!  But I am back, relaxed and focused.  Ideas are flowing and I am excited about what I have planned for the blog this year!  We will continue blogging about my Mother's first visit to South Africa but while my memory is fresh I wanted to blog about my last work trip of the year:  Kampala, Uganda.

I managed to escape two weeks of cold weather by traveling to Kampala, Uganda in December.  Hopefully you were able to read my first blog detailing some history and my first experience in Uganda (http://publicprivateconfessions.blogspot.com/2013/06/destination-uganda-pearl-of-africa.html)! After my first trip to Kampala I was able to come home and say for certainty that Uganda is a country I would love to visit again!  After my second visit I am 80% sure I could live there! 

Near the banks of Lake Victoria, Kampala, the capital of Uganda, is a lively city with quite a bit to see, do and enjoy. Before the British, the city was the capital of the Buganda Kingdom, and remains so to this day.  The two times I have been in Kampala I experienced perfect weather:  80°F in the day, no humidity (and if there is a humidity you are sure it is going to rain) / 60°F at night - sometimes lower requiring a light jacket or cardigan. But do bring an umbrella because when it rains - it pours! While the rain always brings with it cooler temperature it unfortunately also brings with it mosquitoes so also be sure bring repellent with you.

The local currency, Ugandan Shilling, is normally around 2,500 UGX to $1 which means living is pretty affordable for those toting USD or EUR.  And what do I spend my money on?  Food and drinks! Every where you go you can hear laughter, see children playing, hear live music, observe business men having coffee while discussing the day's business and late at night you are sure to hear hard bass and loud music filling the streets.  An indication that someone is dancing somewhere until 2 - 3am ... on a week night.  And then there is quite a variety of places to dine and drink with friends.

Restaurants:

• The Lawns (http://www.thelawns.co.ug/) - If you are adventurous and looking to try game meat, then this is the place to try it - everything is delicious!  The restaurant is garden style eating with beautiful landscape.  Often you will find children chasing the pet bunnies living on the property.  Colleagues and I have dined on stuffed chicken wrapped in bacon, alligator in a garlic white wine sauce, kudu and springbok.  

Bacon and cheese filled naan

Chicken lollipops

Feta and spinach stuffed bacon wrapped chicken

Looking for variety? Try grilled crocodile, kudu and springbok!

I guess it was good ;)

• Shaka Zulu - Local food favorite.  
  
  
  

  

  Reasonable prices!

  
  

  

  Chicken pillau:  spiced rice with chicken, yuca, tomatoes and a spicy sauce for dipping

  

  Luwombo is a traditional Ugandan dish steamed in banana leaves.

  
  

  

  Smoked beef - it was DELICIOUS!

• Little Donkey  - Uganda's version of Chipotle.  The food is fresh and well seasoned.  While you are here you may want to take enjoy one (or two) of their amazing margaritas!  They offer traditional lime margarita but you can also have one made with hibiscus juice which is equally amazing!
  
  
  
  

  

  You can make a burrito, a salad or have everything a la carte.  Enjoy!

• Mediterraneo Pizzeria - If you are absolutely craving pizza and a nice glass of wine, this is a place you should try! 
  
  
  

  

  Nice ambiance!  You will find quite a few expats dining here for lunch. 

  
  

  

  This pizza was AMAZING!

• Fasika - Ethiopian restaurant. If you are craving Ethiopian food, local beer served cold and maybe a game of pool, then find your way to Fasika which is located in Kabalagala.
  
  
  

  

  We ordered all the favorites, of course!...

  
  

  

  ...it was delicious. And yes, we did finish the tray!

As you browse the menu in the suggested restaurants, look out for these tasty local treats which you  MUST try:

• Matoke - matoke would remind you of a green plantain. After being steamed for a couple of hours, matoke is smashed and then served with sauce, usually made of peanut (or groundnut), vegetables or meat.
• Groundnut - us Americans would refer to this as a peanut but let me tell you .. the way the nut is roasted, with the skin, makes this one of the most amazing snacks!  The groundnut has quite a bit of flavor and is addictive!  I suggest taking as much as you can home!
• Nsenene - this is a seasonal snack in Uganda.  Lightly fried in oil and seasonings, this crispy snack reminded me of popcorn.  No 'real' taste with the only texture being crunch.  This small pan costs 100,000 Ugandan shilling or approximately $33! 
  
  

  

  Nsenene or 'grasshopper'

Shopping:  If you are looking for a place to shop until you drop or to simply find a large grocery store then you should stop by Garden City Mall.  You can also find a movie theater, bowling alley and karaoke shenanigans here! If you are need to find souvenirs, check out The Banana Boat for high quality souvenirs.  Warning, they are high priced and there is no bargaining but the souvenirs are nice and would be appreciated by any loved one at home.

Places to Dance / Be Entertained:

• Jazzville on Sunday evenings offers a night of sexy latin dancing!  Hosted by Next Step Dancing, the evening starts at 5pm with lessons in salsa, merengue, zouk, kizomba and bachata.  Then open dancing from 7p - 10p and trust me, YOU WILL DANCE!  I left soaking wet enjoying the dance sweat!  If you are looking for a passionate and friendly group of dancers with whom to learn or simply enjoy dancing, then please find your way to Jazzville on Sunday evenings.  You will not regret it!  Jazzville also offers live music every night.  So sit back, order a drink and enjoy after a long day at work. 
  
  
  
  
• Kabalagala.  There is not much to say because you will not have an issue finding somewhere to to party in Kabalagala.  There are restaurants with live music, lively coffee shops, pubs and lounges.  Coming from Bugolobi a taxi ride to the party center will cost about 25,000 UGX one way.

If you are not a dancer but want to observe dancing, then make your way to Ndere Cultural Center!  For adults who are not from Uganda, the cost is 30,000 UGX which includes the show and dinner buffet.  The dancers are adorned in regional dress sharing tribal traditions through the art of dance.  The best night to go is Friday night.  Before and after the show local artisans also sell souvenirs at a reasonable price.  This does not mean you should not bargain the price - always bargain!  The show begins at 7pm.  Be on time to ensure you get a good seat! 

Places to Stay: 

• My colleague and I have always stayed at Royal Suites in Bugolobi.  The room is a one bedroom apartment with a full kitchen.  It is reasonably priced at $150/night.  Wireless internet is spotty and not consistent but the hotel also offers a full gym, spa with reasonably priced massages and a nice pool.  The restaurant never has everything on the menu so be prepared to ask "What do you have today" versus asking for the menu.  Of course, you also have the option to cook. 
• Down the street are the Dolphin Suites.  I had a chance to visit the property while on a dinner date (that is another story *wink*) and truly enjoyed the grounds!  The pool is gorgeous!  The restaurant is garden style, outside with garden furniture and quite large.  The menu is quite extensive and guess what ~ they have EVERYTHING on the menu!  I was quite impressed.  I ordered chicken tikka masala and it was delicious!  I did take a brochure with me as this may be where I say on my next visit.  The rooms are clean, large and reasonably priced at $100-$125/night.  The other bonus is they offer IN ROOM massages!  This is quite a perk for the tired traveler who may be too exhausted to walk to the spa.
• Before I advise of the next location, I will admit I have never been there personally.  However, my colleague did not have enough great things to say about this resort.  Therefore, the next time I venture to Kampala I will be making my way to Munyonyo Resort.  "Set on 90 acres in the Speke Resort complex and with a majestic view of Lake Victoria, Munyonyo Commonwealth Resort is Uganda’s leading 5-star resort."  90 acres ... 5-star resort??  Oh yes I can get down with a 5-star resort!  There are seven restaurants on the property, a spa, a gym and the staff will also assist with scheduling day trips, safaris as well as recreational activities on the water.  Want the good news?  Rooms start at $145/night!  Learn more on the website:  http://www.munyonyocommonwealth.com/

You can surely see how I would truly enjoy two weeks in Kampala!  For work I have one more trip planned to Kampala.  I plan to extend my stay to make sure I am able to see more in and outside of Kampala.  Can you believe I have YET to enjoy a lazy Sunday afternoon around Lake Victoria?!  I surely cannot!  That is also on my to do list along with a luxury weekend on Munyonyo Resort.  Kampala is a busy city filled with so much culture, things to do, places to eat and new friends to meet.  If you are looking for an adventurous place to vacation, I strongly suggest Uganda, the Pearl of Africa, as your next destination.

My Mother's First Visit to South Africa: The Scenic Route

 On Tuesday October 1, Ingrid's friend kindly volunteered to take us on a scenic drive around Chapman's Peak.  Chapman’s Peak winds it way between Noordhoek and Hout Bay on the Atlantic Coast on the south-western tip of South Africa. It is definitely one of the most spectacular drives in the world!  During the drive we stopped several times.  Our first stop was to enjoy a glass of sparkling wine and the view of Camp's Bay.  Camp's Bay is an affluent suburb with perfect views of white sandy beaches kissed by the wild blue waves of the ocean.  It is also known for its amazing nightlife and mountain-side mansions. 

Ingrid and I sharing a view of Camp's Bay

Mom posing with Camp's Bay in the distance

Panoramic view - Camp's Bay

After the sparkling wine was finished, we hoped back in the car and continued our drive around Chapman's Peak.  Words are not necessary to describe the beauty of the views along this drive.  Let the photos speak for themselves ...

Lovers write their name and proclamation of love on the bricks seen at the bottom right hand corner

A cyclist enjoys a sun-kissed rest

Chris, Ingrid and I enjoying the view

Mom and I enjoying the view

Mom and Ingrid enjoying the view

After enjoying the breath-taking views that Chapman's Peak had to offer we stopped briefly at an Ostrich Ranch.  Interesting.  For some reason the ostrich, behind the fence, decided to walk deceitfully slowly to the other end of the pen, look at me and then run - run quite fast I might add - right toward me!   I panicked and jumped as far as I could from the fence.  The ostrich stopped abruptly, coming inches away from the fence.  Clearly it was toying with me.

After the ostrich ranch we decided it was time for lunch.  We stopped at the Blue Marlin Restaurant for lunch.  I had my revenge and insisted Mom order the ostrich curry for lunch.  It was delicious!  If you are looking for a lean red meat to add to your diet ~ ostrich is it!  Benefits besides being delicious: ostrich meat is low in fat and cholesterol, as well as high in calcium, protein and iron!

Mom and I at Blue Marlin Restaurant

The ladies nice and full after lunch!

Boulder Beach

After lunch came the CUTEST part of the tour:  Boulder Beach to see the African penguins!  The African penguins are endangered and confined to live near Southern African waters.  It is also known as the 'jackass' penguin as it makes a loud, harsh donkey like sound when excited!  Interestingly, the African penguin is monogamous!  It breeds with the same male or female for a life time returning to their breeding site each mating season.

Returning from time in the water

Beached penguins

Lifetime mates

Mom and I pose with the penguins

It was an amazing day full of spectacular views, peaceful moments and "awwww"s as we observed the penguins.  If you are ever in Cape Town this drive is an absolute MUST DO!  But take it from me ~ charge your camera and phone the night before.  You do not want to miss one moment during this drive.

My Mother's First Visit to South Africa: Robben Island

It is Mom's first trip to South Africa and a visit to Robben Island is a must while we are in Cape Town.

Before boarding the ferry Mom and I stopped at a small cafe on the waterfront for breakfast.  Mom and I enjoyed the most delicious bacon and cheese croissant.  Mom enjoyed a white hot chocolate while I enjoyed a vanilla rooibos tea. 

We board the ferry and start the 25 minute journey across Table Bay toward Robben Island.  While on the ferry they play a short video giving all of us on board a short history of the island.  To Mom's surprise it was not always used to imprison political prisoners.  It was a training and defense station during World War II (1939-1945).   As there was no cure and little effective treatment available for leprosy, mental illness and other chronic illnesses in the 1800s, Robben Island was also utilized as a place of quarantine for such patients (1846-1931).  Eventually Robben Island began to be utilized for criminal imprisonment.  And during apartheid enter political prisoners.

The first part of the tour takes place at the Robert Sobukwe house.  Robert Sobukwe was not considered a prisoner, but instead the only “detainee” of the island. Sobukwe's powers of persuasion and political leanings frightened the authorities  and therefore, during his time in jail, a new law,  'Sobukwe Clause', was enacted allowing the Minister of Justice to renew his imprisonment each year at his discretion which he did for the next 6 years.  The 'Sobukwe Clause' was never used on anyone else.  During his solitary confinement Sobukwe had a small house, but also two wardens.  He couldn’t speak to anyone, and could only walk between the four fences.  The solitude eventually affected his ability to talk but he continued to write letters to his wife.  When allowed his wife and children were able to visit but this was not always permitted. 

Bed and bedside table of Sobukwe

Photos of Sobukwe's four children and the beds they slept on during visits to their father.

Mom reading the history of Robert Mangaliso Sobukwe

View of Table Mountain from Robben Island

After the visit to the Sobukwe house, we were given a tour of the prison.  As we circle the island we learn more about the history of the island.  In the distance prisoners were able to view Table Mountain.  This view provided hope for the prisoners, hope of being able to again be free on the mainland.

The tour is given to visitors by ex-political prisoners. Our tour guide was a political prisoner for 9 years for the crime of recruiting young men and women to fight verbally, and with arms if necessary, against apartheid.  He spoke slowly and every detail was animated with his hands.  He was a prisoner in the maximum security prison, Block F.  He received a special ration of food especially measured for the political prisoners.  He was only allowed 30 minutes activity time which he spent playing soccer in a worn field where rocks were more abundant than grass.  He spent his days in the hot sun in the limestone quarry utilizing worn tools to break down the rock every day with little rest or water to

Our tour guide

quench his thirst.  Grown men forced to ask for a bathroom break (which could have been refused) and then relieve themselves in a bucket within a cave located in the quarry.  However, a 'university' was born in that quarry.  Political prisoners on Robben Island working day to day in a quarry that was meant to break them down mentally became place of education.  Political prisoners included judges, lawyers, professors and other educated minds.  Prisoners in the quarry became thirsty to learn.  Sticks for pencils, the sand their chalkboard, prisoners learned math, reading and writing in this hot limestone quarry.  And it was not only the prisoners taking advantage ~ guards also took advantage of the lessons taught by these brilliant minds.  Prisoners entered Robben Island illiterate or with basic literacy abilities and left with the ability to read and write. 

Limestone quarry

Our tour guide described his experience as a prisoner in Block F:  their beds were meager mats on cold, hard floors; windows with cracks allowed cold, rain and heat into the large, crowded room; Black prisoners' wardrobe which consisted of shorts, short sleeve shirts - no socks, no jackets and no shoes.  Their body exposed to the cold winter kiss or hot suffocating summer hug from Mother Nature.  

Mat on the floor which served as a bed for prisoners in Block F.

After sharing his experience, our guide led us to  Block B which housed prisoner 466/64, otherwise known as Nelson Rolihlahla Mandela, for 18 years.  In the winter of 1964, Nelson Mandela arrived on Robben Island.  This powerful, charismatic political prisoner was confined to a small cell - a thin mat on the floor was his bed, a bucket his toilet and he too was forced to do hard labor in the limestone quarry. Nelson Mandela was allowed one visitor a year for 30 minutes.  He could write and receive one letter every six months, letters which were heavily edited prior to being sent or received.

Prison cell of prisoner 466/64 - Nelson Mandela.

The cell is kept closed and locked.  Photos are taken through the bars.  The only tourist allowed to enter the cell, take a moment and then a photo inside this historic location is President Obama.

There is not much to say after a tour of Robben Island.  The ferry ride was silent and pensive.  It is my second tour of the island and I am still taken aback by the cruelty and degradation the political prisoners experienced.  On our way out of the prison I shook the hand of our tour guide and asked him how it felt to be back and give daily tours.  I was ignorantly under the impression he too left the island to go home to his family after a day of tours.  He informed me that he now lives on the island in a small house afforded him as a tour guide.  The same island on which he was a prisoner, held there legally and by force, is now his home.  He lives alone, no family.  His neighbors are other tour guides, other ex-political prisoners.  He wakes up every day to share his experience with tourists who flock to the island.  Tourists who will never truly "experience" the island - who arrive willingly and leave for the mainland once the tour is complete.  If you're ever in Cape Town, take the time - take the journey to Robben Island, "island of seals" and the home of numerous ex-political prisoners who sacrificed their freedom for the freedom South Africans, of every color, experience today.

Ariel view of Robben Island

My Mother's First Visit to South Africa: Arrival into Cape Town

Saturday, September 28 was my brother's 32nd birthday.  This was the same day Mom and I arrived into Cape Town.

How do I introduce Cape Town to my Mother?  By introducing her to RUGBY!  My colleague and friend, John Vivalo, introduced me and a group of training participants to rugby with tickets to a live match in Pretoria in 2010.  I was instantly drawn in.  How can a woman not be drawn to rugby?  Un-padded, well-built men running around in tight shorts showing off their muscular thighs and well sculpted calves ... even the water boy is built like an ancient Roman sculpture.
 

I digress (and take a moment to fantasize) ... back to the story ...

Ingrid, Mom and I venture to the Quay Four.  The bar is filled with South African men adorned in Springbok athletic jerseys with the exception of one man who is wearing a pink shirt, shirt and blond wig, celebrating his upcoming nuptials.

Ummmm congrats are in order?

Explaining rugby rules

We find a seat, order drinks, dinner and enjoy the game.  Ingrid and I explain the rules of the game to mom as the game goes along.  After the Springobok's victory, enter a local band.  Ingrid and I never pass up a chance to dance! dance! dance!  Mom finds herself enjoying a locally brewed beer (Black Label) and joining us as the band plays classic O'Jays, Frankie Beverly and Mayes, Prince, Michael Jackson and Elvis Presley.  At midnight we leave the bar as we have a full day of wine tasting ahead of us on Sunday...

Hello Ingrid!

She didnt let that Black Label go! haha

Someone we met on the dance floor!

Sunday, September 29 Ingrid and I decided in introduce Mom to Delheim wine farm located in Stellenbosch.  I chose this farm for their gorgeous, relaxing views and atmosphere.  It is very much a family orientated farm where you can find vast fields perfect for a picnic, children playing with the Jack Russells on the property as their parents relax and sip award winning wines.  "Worth the Journey" is definitely is and on a perfect Sunday afternoon Mom, Ingrid and I enjoy a wine tasting (choose 6 for 25 rand) and a platter filled with cheese, savory and sweet spreads as well as a smoked game.   On the way home we stop in the small town of Stellenbosch where we purchase gelato.  We enjoy the sweet treat as we quietly enjoy the beautiful sunset on the way home.

A literal warm welcome into Delheim with Glühwein or mulled wine.

After an amazing weekend Mom and I were ready for Monday.  While Ingrid must go to work I have planned a day tour of Robben Island for Mom and I ...

Sawubona! Ngikhona!: My Mother's First Visit to South Africa ~ Johannesburg

For over 4 years I have been blessed to visit South Africa every six months.  And finally, late last year, I convinced my mother to visit as well.  This was not only her first time in South Africa, but also on the continent of Africa.  Sawubona! (Zulu greeting meaning "I see you").  Africa the continent, South Africa the country, sees you Mother and it was therefore my mission to ensure my Mom sees Her too.

I was in Johannesburg for work so the timing of her trip was perfect!  Mom landed in Johannesburg Wednesday, September 25 after a 19 hour direct flight from Washington DC (IAD) to Johannesburg, South Africa.  Upon landing I hired a S-Class Mercedes to pick her up from the airport.  I was still working but wanted to ensure she was greeted properly and so when she entered the room she found slippers, a terry cloth robe, hazelnut creme filled chocolates, South African cheese variety, nuts, two 1/2 bottles of sparkling wine, a bottle of Pinotage and water waiting for her.  Everything she may need to relax after a long flight and a much needed hot shower. 

The next day, Thursday September 26 I sent her on a full day tour of Johannesburg and Soweto.  No need for her to stay in while I work!  The full day tour included a visit to the Apartheid Museum, Mandela House, a township in Soweto and the Hector Pieterson Museum.  She returned from the tour informed and excited to learn more about South Africa.

The journey to FREEDOM seen during the tour of Johannesburg and Soweto.

Township in Soweto

A young boy stands in front of the Township

We had one more day in Johannesburg.  Thankfully my assignment ended early afternoon Friday, September 27 at 5pm and what better way to begin a vacation than in the spa!  Mom and I enjoyed lime / cucumber water in their relaxation room enveloped by a soft terry cloth robe and matching slippers.  After relaxing we were led to separate rooms where we spent 2 hours enjoying hot stone massages and facials.  After the spa we enjoyed a quiet dinner and packed our clothes.  We were mentally ready for our much needed vacation!

 

Ngikhona! (Zulu response to greeting meaning "I am here!").  My mother was indeed here ~ in Africa...in South Africa and we would have 8 more amazing days of information and relaxation in Cape Town.