Road trip! Destination: Livingstone

Hello from the road!

No visit to Zambia is complete without a trip to Livingstone to see Victoria Falls. Unfortunately, while the rainy season was supposed to start in November, Zambia has seen low rain falls and we were guaranteed low water at the falls. Additionally, since it is 'off season' the in-country airline used to fly to Livingstone was only offering one flight a day to/from Livingstone.  But as we were determined Mom and I decided ROAD TRIP!

I paid my driver a total of 3,000 kwacha (approximately $300) for the drive to/from Lusaka.  This also covered gas as well as his room costs for an overnight stay in Livingstone.  Not bad considering usually a round trip ticket to/from Livingstone costs about $300 per person.

Friday afternoon we hit the road about noon.  Mom packed the car with our luggage, snacks, ice, coke and the always necessary, rum.  We were prepared for the 7 hour ride.

Rum/coke = road trip refreshment

While in Livingstone we stayed at the Avani (http://www.avanihotels.com/victoria-falls/).  The Avani is located next door to the Royal Livingstone.  We were hungry when we checked in so immediately we decided to go to the restaurant to enjoy dinner.  Dinner was buffet but it was really good!  Mom enjoyed fish and crocodile while I enjoyed kudu stew and couscous.  The house wine was also nice and the wine list boasts of a large variety from South Africa.

The room was very nice with African decor, comfortable beds, large bathroom and the best shower (perfect pressure).  I swear I did not want to get out of that shower!  But we were not there to shower all day so time to play!

When we leave the room to play it was not uncommon to 'bump' into a herd of zebras or a few giraffes!  Both are comfortable with human presence.  I would not jump up to pet one of them as they are still wild animals but it was nice to be so close to such beautiful creatures.

Grazin' in the grass ...

Oh! Hello Marty!

Hello!

We will just pass when you are ready ...

Welcome to the Avani and Livingstone, Mom!

The original plan:  Saturday - land and water safari in Chobe Park, Botswana. Sunday - Victoria Falls tour on Zambia and Zimbabwe side.  Six hours into the drive to Livingstone I realized suddenly that I left my passport on my bedroom dresser.  I took it out of my purse the night before, changed purses and forget to put it into the new, smaller purse.  My heart sank.  I informed Mom and never stressed she simply said, "That's ok,  We can ask for a refund or credit and perhaps find something else to do while in Livingstone."

Game drive time!

The new plan:  Saturday morning - breakfast and game drive. Saturday evening - six course dinner with unlimited wine and beer on the Royal Livingstone Express (http://www.royal-livingstone-express.com/).  Sunday - breakfast on Livingstone Island and trip to Devil's Pool. The new itinerary was great and provided me with new experiences my fourth time in Livingstone.

The game drive took place in Mosi-oa-Tunya National Park. The drive was 3 hours and Mom and I were the only ones in the 4 x 4 vehicle. Usually one can see rhino, buffalo, hippo, birds, zebras, giraffes and elephants on the drive.  However, many of the "big" animals stayed camouflaged and away from our view. We did, however, see more zebras, impala, kudu, birds, hippos sun-bathing and warthogs. It was a beautiful day and a nice ride. Our driver, Humble, provided insight on many of the plants and trees we passed were used in natural remedies in the village. At the end of the game drive, we sat down by the Zambezi, enjoyed water, talked a bit more and then returned to the Avani to get ready for the evening out.

Mom and I returned to the Avani, dusted ourselves off and dressed for our experience on the Royal Livingstone Express.  The experience promised not only a gourmet six-course meal but also unlimited wine and beer, light snacks and  to temporarily stop on the Victoria Falls Bridge to see the sunset.

Upon boarding we were greeting with a drink of our choice.  We boarded the train, found a seat and indulged in olives, warm nut variety and homemade chips.  We sparked conversation with those sitting next to us - many were on the train for a romantic dinner with one couple celebrating their recent engagement.

Moving forward ...

Mom and I enjoyed a few drinks, conversation and views from the train as it worked its way through the countryside and toward the Victoria Falls Bridge. Once at the bridge we snapped photos over the falls, in 'no man's land' (a small piece of unclaimed land between Zambia and Zimbabwe) and of course, bought copper bracelets from merchants on the bridge.

On the way back from the sunset views we sat down for the promised gourmet six-course dinner.  The menu was as follows:

• Cold cauliflower and coconut soup.  Review:  NOT our thing.  First, it was cold.  Second, it was bland.
• Salmon fish cake served with chili sauce and beetroot. Review:  very fish. Also, while it was not supposed to be cold, it was served cold which was disappointing.
• Mushroom risotto.  Review:  while both Mom and I do not like mushrooms, this was very good!  Well seasoned, served warm, nice texture and really great flavor.  
• Slow roasted lamb shoulder with rosemary, served with polenta cake and balsamic jus. Review: WOW!  This was VERY good!  I wish I skipped the first two in an effort to save room for the main course!  I tried (tried very hard) to finish this course but my tummy just said no haha The lamb was perfectly prepared, juicy, and with amazing flavor.  Can you tell this was my favorite dish?
• Lemon tart with lemon sorbet.  Review:  again, I was full so only sampled the tart.  The filling was too tart for me but the crust was delicious!  The lemon sorbet was perfect and a great way to ease some of the 'full' feeling.
• Coffee or tea served with petit fours.  Review:  I only had tea but the petit fours did look tempting.  Mom and I simply could not fit anything else in our bodies.

Overall review:  it was a very nice outing and worth the money.  While we did not like everything on the menu, we did enjoy the meal overall.  Finally, this allowed us to see the falls from a different vantage point for Mom which was nice.  Most importantly, she enjoyed the evening.  Saturday was a success.

Mom reviewing the menu

Sunset

Cheers to a successful Saturday in Livingstone!

We arrived back at the hotel at almost 10p.  We were still pretty full and exhausted so we enjoyed a night cap in our hotel room and went to sleep.

The next morning we packed as we planned to leave Livingstone no later than noon. Of course we would leave after breakfast on Livingstone Island and trip to Devil's Pool.  Now let me remind everyone that I am afraid of heights.  Therefore, I had ZERO intention of going INTO Devil's Pool. No, I simply planned to gaze upon the pool and appreciate its glory from a safe rock in the distance. Breakfast + tour would be approximately 90 minutes so we opted for the 9:00am breakfast.  We boarded a small motor boat and it took approximately 5 minutes to reach Livingstone Island.

Safety first!  Here we come Livingstone Island!

Livingstone Island is historically significant as it is the place where David Livingstone first glimpsed the "mosi-oa-tunya" which is the local name for Victoria Falls and means the "smoke that thunders."

Circled - Livingstone Island

Upon docking the boat, we trekked to the edge of the falls able to experience the falls from the same view as David Livingstone.  There was a moment of silence among the small group.  Not in sadness but in awe.  The view is amazing. In the silence you can appreciate the greatness of Victoria Falls and what those before us may have thought as they glimpsed this God-made natural wonder.  I have seen the falls 'full' so it was weird for me to experience the falls so 'dry' but a rainbow still made its way into the experience!

Mom and I

Afterwards we trekked to Devil's Pool.  Devil's Pool is a deep natural pool created by thousands of years of erosion.  Many people come to swim in the pool and peer over the edge of the falls.  The view is amazing - water crashing, splashing your face, rainbows and the feeling of adrenaline running through your veins.  The natural barrier of rocks allows one to jump in and swim without being swept over the edge.  No, I personally experienced none of that.  Scroll up - I am afraid of heights LOL so I paid our tour guide to 1) guard my phone with his life and 2) take photos of the magnificent view to allow Mom and I to experience Devil's Pool, safely, from a distance, on a flat rock.  

Beautiful abyss - Devil's Pool

Hello from Mom

I refused to stand up -- even on the flat safety rock.  Can you see the terror
in my smile? LOL

Smiling to avoid appearing frightened haha

I mean we are close enough to the edge!

Over the edge ... 

God's promise

After experiencing Devil's Pool from the safety of our flat rock, the tour ended. Now for breakfast! Good because not only was I hungry but I was hot and thirsty! We walked back to medium size tent arranged near the gorge.  Breakfast was served: Eggs Benedict with creamed spinach, hollandaise, bacon, bran muffins, sweet scones, fruit, coffee, tea and water.  I requested no eggs as I am not a fan. Breakfast was delicious!  The sweet scones were warm and really nice.  The bacon, hollandaise and creamed spinach on the homemade english muffin was really nice. I would absolutely recommend this experience!  It was a wonderful morning with breath-taking views, rainbows and delicious scones.  

Leaving Livingstone was hard but on the ride home we reflected on all the beauty Zambia has to offer.  It was a short but wonderful weekend.  

"...scenes so lovely must have been gazed upon by Angels in their flight..." ~ David Livingstone

Final blog entry detailing #momanddaugtherbonding vacation will detail our adventures in the Netherlands and Belgium.  Stay tuned!