Wine Time!: The 2016 Lusaka Wine Show

My last weekend (just a short vacation) in Lusaka was wine and laughter filled!  June 10 - 11 was the 2016 Lusaka Wine Show.  The name is a bit devious as the over 80 wines which were featured were from 11 farms located in Cape Town, from Stellenbosch, Franschheok and Paarl.  The event was held at the Radisson Blu.  We attended the event on Friday night, June 10.

The tickets were K125 (advance) which is approximately $12 per person. The ticket included enterance into the event, a wine glass and a pen.  *I am just realizing as I type this that I left my wine glass and pen behind...*

Before venturing to the wine show I decided to load up on carbs and enjoyed a yummy Indian dinner complete with rice and naan.  My wine tasting strategy was to stop at every table to taste the sparkling, white and rose wines.  After enjoying those, I planned to have another carb filled snack, water and then re-circle the venue for reds (I have to have my Pinotage, of course).  I think it worked out pretty well actually!

The eleven farms that blessed us with the fermented juice from their vineyards were: Babylonstoren, Black Elephant, De Meve, Hillcrest, Hoopenburg, Lynx (one of my faves), Marianne, Niel Joubert, Noble Hill (a new fave), Painted Wolf and Peter Falke.

The very first farm we enjoyed was Hoopenburg (http://www.hoopenburgwines.co.za/Default.aspx?CLIENTID=1138).  This is where we met Anton and where I realized that I am a fan of unwooded Chardonnay.  I realized I have not been a fan of Chardonnay because I do not like the California, wooded, version.  But the more I try from South African farms, I realize I am a true fan.  Anton did not believe we would make it back to his table but let me tell you, we made it back three more times! haha Unfortunately, the bottle was sold out when I went to purchase.

One of the reasons the Lynx farm (http://www.lynxwines.co.za/index.php) is one of my favorites is because I absolutely LOVE their Blanc de Noir.  It is definitely a 'drinking wine' - chill it, open it, drink it!  During this event I became a fan of their Lynx Vino Blanco - another easy drinking wine and their Lynx SMV (a blend of Shiraz, Mourvedre and Viognier).  I am not a fan of the other wine pictured - Viognier Tardio - mainly because it is a sweet white wine.  However, if you are into sweet whites, the Viognier Tardio is for you!

My second favorite at the event, and a new favorite, was the Noble Hill farm (http://www.noblehill.com/).  The one thing that really drew me to this table was the presentation. The gentleman who provided the tasting was the nicest dressed at the event wearing a nice pair of khakis, dress shirt, bow tie and jacket.  The table was also well organized and presentable.  When we first arrived the table was quite popular but once many of the people left my friends and I swooped in!

The first thing we tried was the Blanc de Blanc - their MCC bubbly.  Only 1200 bottles are made per year and it is a special bottle.  I would have procured one at the event, however, in Lusaka the bottle cost K300 or almost $30.  On the farm the same bottle costs R185 or a little over $12!  Plus the way this farm was presented, it is definitely one I want to visit my next time in Cape Town!

The other wine I really enjoyed at the Noble Hill table was their Estate Blend.  He informed us that the wine represented Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Cabernet Franc and Petit Verdot. To me, this was a big steak wine!  Something I could imagine enjoying with an amazing rib eye with blue cheese.  But alas my dreams were shattered as the bottle was sold out when I attempted to purchase.  Another reason to visit the farm!

Of course not every farm is perfect.  One of the farms I really wanted to try was the Painted Wolf farm (www.paintedwolfwines.com/).  I really wanted to like more from this farm, mainly because of their adorable mascot but we were all disappointed.  The one that I admittedly LOVED was their Rose.  My goodness it was good!  It was another drinking wine.  Something you open and enjoy with friends during the summer on a hot day.  Like fermented lemonade ha ...

Isn't the mascot - an African wild dog - adorable?!

The farm was the Black Elephant and none of us were fans.  No photo and if you cannot say anything nice ... well ... moving on.

Eventually we made our way to the Babylonstoern farm (https://www.babylonstoren.com/).  This was actually a really nice selection.  I really enjoyed their Mourvedre Rose but more than that, I loved their Babel Red.  I am starting to realize I enjoy a nice, big blend when it comes to red wines!  Their Babel blend is quite a representation of Cabernet Sauvignon, Shiraz, Merlot, Cabernet Franc, Malbec and Petit Verdot.  

One of the final tables we enjoyed was the Hillcrest Farm table (http://www.hillcrestfarm.co.za/).  By the time we arrived, he was serving one of two wines:  Cabernet Sauvignon Rose and the Sauvignon Blanc.  To my surprise I was a huge fan of the Sauvignon Blanc!  There was something very subtle, yet spicy about the wine that made me want to pair it with my favorite pizza.  Apparently, this farm is also known for its olives and olive oil.  I entered the contest to win the gift box pictured, but alas, no luck.  Guess this is a reason for me to visit the farm the next time I am in Cape Town!  I do love olives, warm bread and an amazing olive oil!

Hillcrest Farm

I was able to purchase 6 bottles, ultimately.  The price was not bad.  For the six bottles I paid a little over $90.  After the event some of us went to the outside dining area, opened a bottle and stayed a while.  I would absolutely say it was a really fun event!

I actually procured 2 bottles of the Blanc de Noir and 2 of the Painted Wolf rose
but well I have already shared one bottle with friends!

I am actually looking forward to the next event which is August 26 - the Wine and Whiskey Festival!

Spillin' the Tea in Lusaka

The problem with the foreign service or expat lifestyle is that one has the opportunity to make amazing friends, confidants, those who are our mentor or like older / younger siblings to us ... and then after 2 - 4 years, they or we leave.  On a positive note, we are at least blessed to have these people enter our lives, even if for only a season.

This afternoon a few ladies who have been touched by Ayana gathered in a small garden located at Taste By Rootz, a tea room and brew bar, for an afternoon high tea. The location was lush with trees, gorgeous flowers, and even a small pool. The table for our high tea was set in the middle of this small oasis in Lusaka.

Rootz has a new location in Roma off of Kwacha Road

The high tea cost K175 per person (approximately $19). Prior to tasting the teas, the hostess passed around seven for us to enjoy through scent.  Immediately, I fell in love with two:  orange cactus fig and love me tender.  Unfortunately, the tea room only had 5 tea pots at one time so we chose our favorites based on more than one person liking a particular tea.  Thankfully, when we finished a pot of tea, the hostess either filled it up again with hot water or offered another tea off our list.  In the end we LOVED:  orange cactus fig, rooibos vanilla, rooibos shangri la, white diamonds and winter almond.

They all smelled wonderful!  It was hard to choose the first 5!

As they prepared the first five teas selected, our hostess brought out lunch which consisted of dainty finger sandwiches (egg salad, chicken salad, cucumber and salmon), delicate pastries (lemon tart, mixed fruit tart, peanut butter and chocolate scone, lemon cupcake and chocolate cake) and savory scones complete with homemade jams (apple and tomatillo) as well as fresh cream and butter.

As we enjoyed tea and lunch, we played "Spill the tea," a guessing game focused around Ayana (FYI: she apparently has a recipe and makes an AMAZING raw cheesecake!). Afterwards we shared our favorite stories about Ayana, which included how most of us met her.  It was clear that Ayana has touched more women than those at the table as many of us met her through a friend who insisted we meet Ayana when we move to Zambia!  (Thanks Shawntel for the connection!)

Niki sharing on why she is going to miss Ayana

The afternoon was supposed to end at 2:30pm but it was such a gorgeous day, with beautiful women and delicious tea that we ended up staying until almost 4:30pm!  There were a few tears but those were soaked up by the all of the laughter and hugs which were genuinely shared.  

Proverbs 27:9 says, "Oil and perfume make the heart glad, and the sweetness of a friend comes from his (her) earnest counsel,"   To  many of the ladies, Ayana has been there as a listening ear, prayer partner, wise voice during Bible study, someone to laugh with, a person to share the love of fresh juices and hatred of refined sugar hahaha but mainly, as I told Ashlee, she is one person that you KNOW her word is true.  She stands by her convictions.  She is a true friend and she will be truly missed by many ladies here in Lusaka.

Afternoon laughs with Ashlee
(http://www.willdrinkfortravel.com/)

Gorgeous Kenya

Kenya and I lovin on each other!

The Ladies at Afternoon Tea
Lusaka, Zambia

Follow me on snap chat (pmkenney79) to see what I am doing in Lusaka on the daily basis!

Easter Weekend in Cape Town: Hippity Hop On and Off Franschhoek Wine Tram

It is no secret that I spent my Easter weekend in Cape Town with my friend, Ingrid, and her family. As always, it was a great time!  As I have been to Cape Town many times, we thought it was time for a few different experiences.

Usually, Ingrid drives to the wine farms, unable to truly enjoy the tasting since she has to drive.  And usually, we make it to 3-4 farms.  This trip, to alleviate this issue, I suggested we eliminate some of the pressure and enjoy the Franschhoek Wine Tram (http://winetram.co.za/).

It was actually quite a chilly day and by the time we reached Franschhoek it was raining ... I was wearing open toe sandals!  I needed to enjoy the day so I decided to quickly buy a pair of leather loafers, handmade in South Africa, from Tsonga (http://www.tsonga.co.za/).  They cost me R1000 or $63 (approximately) - what a deal!  The tram left at 10am and now with my warm loafers, I was ready to enjoy the tour!

The tour costs R200 per person or approximately $12.50.  The tour includes visits to 7 of 8 farms and wine tasting at 2 of the farms selected.  We chose the BLUE LINE tour.  On the day of our tour one of the farms, La Petit Dauphine, was closed for a private event.  Trust me, visiting 6 farms was adequate!  You do have the option of staying 2 hours at a farm of your choice to have lunch which means you skip one farm.  As we wanted to visit as many farms as possible, we made the decision to simply snack along the way.  I think this was the way to go for sure!

On the tour you spend one hour at each farm,which is more than enough time to indulge in the tasting being offered.  We visited the following farms on our tour, which ended at 6pm:

• La Lude (www.lelude.co.za).  La Lude only produces fermented sparkling wines - Cap Classique method - with their grapes being imported from France. The tasting room is simply, yet elegantly decorated and ideal for bridal showers, hen parties or even a fun ladies wine tasting event.  I felt quite classy during my tasting and would enjoy visiting this farm again and completing the pairing with the mini savory and sweet bites which are also offered at the tasting.  
  
  
  

  

  WHO does not enjoy a nice glass of bubby??

• Holden Manz (www.holdenmanz.com).  Holden Manz is surrounded by mountains and the views, even on a rainy day, are gorgeous! The tasting at this farm was included in the price of the tram experience; however, Ingrid and I did add three wines to the tasting.  Surprisingly, Ingrid enjoyed their Merlot and I, a red wine lover, enjoyed their Chardonnay the best!  It was a bit windy and chilly so I wish our tasting was inside but otherwise a very  nice experience.  

Grapes on the vineyard

Merlot with a stormy view

Yum!

• La Bourgogne ( ww.labourgogne.co.za).  This was my favorite farm.  By the time we reached this farm the group was warmed up and socializing so we decided to share a large platter which included fresh fruit, meats, cheeses, warm bread, olive oil pressed at the farm, olives marinated in garlic and thyme grown at the farm, savory spreads, a sweet upside down tart and vanilla bean cream.  It was delicious!  My favorites were the olives and olive oil, both of which I purchased to enjoy upon my return to Lusaka.  I am not a port wine person but the tasting ended with a White Honey Wine which I also procured to enjoy at home.  

Everything was so good.  Oops did not get a photo of the
olives and olive oil ... consumed too fast haha

• La Couronne (www.lacouronnewines.co.za).  The farm is named after a French warship built in 1636 by the French Navy and my second favorite farm due to the comfort of the wine tasting and the introduction of pizza pairing wine tasting! Who knew pizza and wine could be perfectly paired?! Mini pizzas were paired with selected Commander's Selection wines.  I would encourage a visit to this farm for this unique tasting!  Of note, at this farm I taught the Samsung friendly group how to "beam" photos!  This lead to the name of our whatsapp group ...

(top-bottom: banana with bobotie paired with Chardonnay; biltong paired with Malbec
and ham with peppers paired with Bordeaux)

• Mont Rochelle (www.montrochelle.co.za).  This farm is now owned and part of the Richard Branson conglomerate.  By the time we reached this farm we were ... tipsy haha so thank God for the healthy portions of bites offered with the wine tasting!  To note, the food was much better than the wine and the views were spectacular!  
  
  
  
  
  

  

  (Bottom to top:  spicy shrimp curry; rich brownie with macademia nuts,
  raspberry and fudge sauce; blue cheese with carmalized onion relish). As I mentioned, I
  LOVED the food ... the wine, not so much.

  
  

  

  It is clearing up!  Gorgeous clouds.

• Rickety Bridge (www.ricketybridgewinery.com).  The final farm on the tour.  By this time we are all hugs, love and have formed a whatsapp group (named:  Touch It)!  The wine tasting room is very open and leads outside which allows everyone to enjoy, yet another, gorgeous view of the mountains.  I was a fan of The Bridge Cabernet Sauvignon.  I would actually like to return to this farm to enjoy an afternoon (a warmer one) with lunch and of course wine. 

  

  On the way to Rickety Bridge!

Ingrid and I made new friends, enjoyed new farms and new pairing bites.  I would absolutely suggest doing the Franschhoek Wine Tram if you are in Cape Town.  On my next visit I plan to stay the night and jump on either the RED or YELLOW line which boasts of 'rolling vineyard' views.

It was rainy. It was cold.  It was an amazing day!

Touch It ... Go ahead, just Touch It! ha

7-Course Dinner + Wine Tasting at Lilayi Lodge

Dining area in Lilayi Lodge

Earlier this month nine friends and I indulged in a 7-course dinner and wine tasting, here in Lusaka, at Lilayi Lodge.  The food and the wine were absolutely divine! 

This event is quite popular with varying wine farms hosting each event.  The event is usually every 6-8 weeks and you must absolutely keep your eye open on all social media sites as the event becomes full fast!  The cost per person was K500 or approximately $48.

This particular event was held on a Saturday.  The featured wine farm was Paul Culver (http://www.cluver.com/).  The wine farm is actually located approximately 70km outside of Cape Town in Elgin.  Elgin boasts of cool temperatures which are actually perfect for growing apples.  It is no wonder that upon entering Lilayi we were warmly greeted with a glass of crisp apple cider – Cluver & Jack Apple Cider.  The cider is 5% alcohol and is really light and easy to drink. 

After enjoying the cider we were seated at our table.  I glanced over the menu and immediately my taste buds were intrigued!  I can tell you I was not disappointed by the end of this event – with the food, or the wine!  It was by far one of the best tastings I have experienced!  My only disappointment was that there were no bottles immediately ready for sale.  Otherwise, my friends and I were sure to buy cases of wine upon our departure.

I hope my descriptions and photos accurately portray this delicious experience!

Course one:  Organic greens with seared calamari and fresh salmon, served on a beet root puree.  Paired with:  Paul Cluver – Sauvignon Blanc 2015.  Comment:  I was NOT a fan of the salad.  I have a thing where I do not like my seafood to taste “fishy” and the salmon left a “fishy” after taste which I did not like.  The wine, however, made up for it.  My pallet was rinsed nicely and this says a lot since I actually do not prefer white wines.

Course two:  Homemade gnocci with a creamy seafood and dill sauce.  Paired with:  Paul Cluver – Chardonnay 2015.  Comment:  By FAR one of my favorite pairings!  The gnocci was perfect and the sauce was amazing!  No “fishy” after taste and the perfect amount of dill.  Also, the wine was delicious!  Again, I am not a fan of white wines, generally, but this Chardonnay may change my mind!

Course three:  Grilled Nile perch in a duglere sauce.  Paired with:  Paul Cluver – Dry Encounter Riesling 2014.  Comment:  Unfortunately, my fish was overcooked and even a little charred at the bottom.  My friend, Carrie, allowed me to taste her fish and it was flaky and really nice as it was cooked perfectly.  The wine was also too sweet for me and one of the reasons I am not a huge fan of Rieslings … so I thought …

Course four:  Chicken satay skewer with an Asian green papaya and mango salad.  Paired with:  Paul Cluver – Gewurtztraminer 2015.  Comment:  Surprisingly one of my favorites as well!  I am actually not a fan of chicken satay as I do not like sauces made with peanuts.  However, this was really nice.  The peanut taste was in the ‘background’ and the other spices provided a really nice balance to the sauce.   Also, the Asian green papaya and mango salad was really nice!  There was an interesting balance of tart, sweet and salty from the fruit and dressing combination.  I almost did not want this course to end!  The wine … one of my favorites!  I am a huge fan of Gewurtztraminer – one of two white wines I try to keep on hand!  The combination of both the food and the wine was perfect! 

Course five:  Venison medallions with parmesan mashed potato topped with stroganoff sauce.  Paired with: Paul Cluver – Estate Pinot Noir 2014.  Comment:  This dish was almost perfect except the venison was over-cooked and a bit tough.  Unfortunate!  However, the meat was flavored well with the stroganoff sauce and the mashed potato was very nice.  I am not really a fan of Pinot Noir – I like my red wine to be bodied!  I wish they paired this dish with a fuller bodied wine.  But again, a delightful course.

Course six: Shredded duck in phyllo pastry with berry sauce.  Paired with:  Paul Cluver – Seven Flags Pinot Noir 2013.  Comment:  Ladies and gents, my favorite pairing of the night!  I thought the berry sauce was going to make the dish sweet but it was actually a really good combination of flavors.  The shredded duck was tender and seasoned well; the phyllo pastry was flaky and crispy.  Above I mentioned I am not a fan of Pinot Noir.  Well the Seven Flags Pinot Noir 2013 changed my mind!  It was perfect and had the perfect amount of body to stand against the shredded duck.  I could have easily eaten two portions and enjoyed another full pour of this wine!

Course seven:  Passion fruit crème brulee served with chocolate biscuit straw.  Paired with:  Paul Cluver – Riesling Noble Late Harvest 2014.  Comment:  Crème brulee is one of my favorite desserts … if prepared correctly.  This was not.  It was lumpy and the texture immediately turned me off!  However, I wanted to sip on the Riesling Noble Late Harvest 2014 so I enjoyed the chocolate biscuit straw with the wine.  The wine was sweet but appropriately so.  It reminded me of a port wine and I actually surprised myself and enjoyed it!  I even finished off my friend’s glass!

Overall it was, again, a really enjoyable evening.  I would absolutely recommend this event.  And to those vegetarians, do not fret – the chef will accommodate!  Two of the guests at my table were vegetarians.  Though they enjoyed the seafood dishes, any other meat was substituted with main courses made with mushroom, eggplant, rich cheeses, spices and potatoes.  They also enjoyed their meal and we appreciate that the chef accommodated their diet.  If you are traveling around or living in Lusaka, I would highly recommend gathering friends and family together for a very lovely evening at Lilayi Lodge (http://www.lilayi.com/) for their 7-course dinner and wine tasting.  

In four short days I am en route to Cape Town for a lovely Easter weekend.  Now, if only I could some how fit a visit to the Paul Culver farm hmmm ...

Thoughts in a quiet house ...

This blog is supposed to detail my life traveling, working and living in Africa.  With a sprinkling of my dating life.  I admit I have neglected blogging about the latter.  Maybe more openness in 2016.

Daddy and I, CAU graduation

But today, tonight the root of my sadness is the void I feel now that my Daddy is not on this Earth. After a loved one passes people comfort you with words of "...they are always with you..." or "....they are in a better place, with the Lord." and on certain days, those words are helpful, are appreciated. But for me those days are maybe 10% of the 90% of the days I wake up.  

It really is about the little things.  Things that actually are not little because they are every day things.  Every day things like him making coffee and breakfast.  Every day things like him cleaning the kitchen after a family party at the house.  Every day things like him ironing my Sunday church clothes or him polishing my shoes. Every day comments like, "Baby girl, you are spoiled.  How are you going to find a man that cooks, cleans, irons and polishes shoes?!"  haha "I probably won't Daddy. That is why I come here every weekend *we laugh*" I miss that laugh ... I miss him shaking his head thinking "I have spoiled her ..."

This past holiday season it was very hard to celebrate without my Daddy.  I was just not in the mood. I did not feel like shopping.  I did not feel like wrapping gifts.  I did not feel like listing to solid gold oldies.  I did not feel like laughing.  And in all honestly, a strong rum and coke ... or a few of them ... helped me force a smile, "feel" the holiday spirit.  Then one Sunday with all intentions of going to the 10:30a service at my home church, Grace (Grace Church, Dumfries VA), I woke up, naturally, early. This is not me.  So I listened to my Spirit, dressed and attended the 8:30am service.  My Bishop, Bishop Grier, spoke of JOY.  Pertinent sermon or message, short, I realized I HAD LOST MY JOY.  

Oh there is a sour dating situation that contributed to a minor loss of joy but much of my joy was drained with the passing of my Daddy.  I was not only sad, bitter, perhaps depressed but also jealous. I took sharp notice to those who had their fathers after the age of 60. I was angry + jealous.  WHY did THEY deserve to have THEIR fathers longer?  HOW could my Daddy have fulfilled HIS purpose?  WHY was MY Daddy not permitted to walk me down the aisle, meet my children, his grandchildren ... why was I not permitted those memories?  When I accepted the job in Zambia, much of my career was discussed with my Daddy.  Why was he not not going to be around when I finally came home after my time in Zambia?  It is not that I was angry with God.  I just had questions. Questions that came with tears, heartache like I have never known and as I mentioned before, bitterness.  My "joy tank" was on E.  I was on fumes.  

God is not only good - He is SUPER.  I KNOW he got me out of bed early to ensure I was at that service on THAT Sunday.  I know he was pulling me up to the "tank" to be JOYFULLY and SPIRITUALLY refilled.  On FULL.  And what I have learned since then in talking to women of my Grace family, is that it is OK to ask God these questions.  It is not OK, however, to lose the joy with which God is constantly trying to fill me.  

Every single day is a struggle to not allow that God given joy to be depleted.  Every single day I miss my Daddy and some days are worse than others.  Some days, yes, I do need 2 glasses of wine to sleep through the night.  It is easier than crying myself to sleep - pillow wet, unable to catch my breathe as I cry "Daddy, why did you leave me.  Why Daddy, why are you gone?"  And I know it is not fair to blame him. I know that God makes not mistakes.  I guess I just wish God would whisper in my ear, "Phoebe, I promise, he did not leave before his  purpose was complete."  Some days I just need that spiritual confirmation.  

Seven months before my Daddy passed, my grandmother - his mother - passed.  From cancer.  And I admit, while I did cry as I left for Zambia, knowing I may not see her again ... I did cry when I heard she passed ... and I cried the week of her funeral knowing I could not be there ( I had just moved to Zambia).  But I smiled/still smile also.  Seeing grandma in pain, sleepy, not eating, just wanting to be in peace ... her passing hurt but I was relieved she was no longer in pain.  No longer sleepy, just sleeping in the arms of her Savior.  Pain-free.  It is easy to laugh at memories with her - even the ones where she got on my nerves haha

People say, "I know he left suddenly and that hurts, but better for that to happen versus him being in pain, suffering, weak, unable to care for himself in a hospital or hospice, etc. etc."  But I guess I do not agree.  Selfishly, VERY selfishly, I believe that would have been an easier situation.  Seeing him pass and out of pain would have been a RELIEF.  A blessing.  I would have mourned the same but the pain would have been easier. 

Today I finally returned to Zambia.  Alone.  A quiet house.  It has not been this quiet since early November.  When I returned to Zambia after we buried by Daddy I knew flying back to Zambia, I would not be alone.  I was expecting a guest (who was special then but is just simply trash now ha maybe another blog entry?) and my Mom.  I know my home would be noisy, filled with love, hope, the idea of moving forward.  That is not how I felt returning today.  Today as I sat on the plane, collected by bags and rode in the Embassy vehicle to my home, I knew it would be quiet.  I would return home to nobody.  I have been home for 10 hours and in the silence I can tell you I have only thought about my Daddy.  I have just missed him so much today...but I anticipated this feeling...

My best friend and I created our 2016 Vision Boards a few days ago.  It took me a while to start mine as many of my friends and family complete there Vision Boards at my NYE party (that was the theme - main attraction).  But I was trying to think - pray - about what could I possibly look forward to in this new year?  I have often thought HOW is it possible for me to be the same person - laughing, dancing, hopeful for what is to come next ... but FINALLY, I did complete my Vision Board. Finally, I think I have enough hope, enough laughter, enough love to push me through and be EXCITED about 2016.

I know I will have my rough days.  My sad days.  Nights where I may cry myself to sleep.  But I am equipped with scripture, family phone tree and my vision board to see me through those days. Today, tonight, sucks.  It just sucks.  I am looking over and over again at photos of my Daddy, emails he sent me and especially the very last email he sent me anticipating his birthday and me coming home for Christmas...I no longer have a paper diary.  This blog is my diary - an open diary.  Because this night is part of my overall experience.  Don't judge me.  Don't feel sorry for me.  Just pray for me.  And if you are not the praying kind, keep me in your positive thoughts.  I need all happy, blessed vibes.

Happy days in 2016 from Zambia.

XO, Phoebe

We miss you Daddy ....

Road trip! Destination: Livingstone

Hello from the road!

No visit to Zambia is complete without a trip to Livingstone to see Victoria Falls. Unfortunately, while the rainy season was supposed to start in November, Zambia has seen low rain falls and we were guaranteed low water at the falls. Additionally, since it is 'off season' the in-country airline used to fly to Livingstone was only offering one flight a day to/from Livingstone.  But as we were determined Mom and I decided ROAD TRIP!

I paid my driver a total of 3,000 kwacha (approximately $300) for the drive to/from Lusaka.  This also covered gas as well as his room costs for an overnight stay in Livingstone.  Not bad considering usually a round trip ticket to/from Livingstone costs about $300 per person.

Friday afternoon we hit the road about noon.  Mom packed the car with our luggage, snacks, ice, coke and the always necessary, rum.  We were prepared for the 7 hour ride.

Rum/coke = road trip refreshment

While in Livingstone we stayed at the Avani (http://www.avanihotels.com/victoria-falls/).  The Avani is located next door to the Royal Livingstone.  We were hungry when we checked in so immediately we decided to go to the restaurant to enjoy dinner.  Dinner was buffet but it was really good!  Mom enjoyed fish and crocodile while I enjoyed kudu stew and couscous.  The house wine was also nice and the wine list boasts of a large variety from South Africa.

The room was very nice with African decor, comfortable beds, large bathroom and the best shower (perfect pressure).  I swear I did not want to get out of that shower!  But we were not there to shower all day so time to play!

When we leave the room to play it was not uncommon to 'bump' into a herd of zebras or a few giraffes!  Both are comfortable with human presence.  I would not jump up to pet one of them as they are still wild animals but it was nice to be so close to such beautiful creatures.

Grazin' in the grass ...

Oh! Hello Marty!

Hello!

We will just pass when you are ready ...

Welcome to the Avani and Livingstone, Mom!

The original plan:  Saturday - land and water safari in Chobe Park, Botswana. Sunday - Victoria Falls tour on Zambia and Zimbabwe side.  Six hours into the drive to Livingstone I realized suddenly that I left my passport on my bedroom dresser.  I took it out of my purse the night before, changed purses and forget to put it into the new, smaller purse.  My heart sank.  I informed Mom and never stressed she simply said, "That's ok,  We can ask for a refund or credit and perhaps find something else to do while in Livingstone."

Game drive time!

The new plan:  Saturday morning - breakfast and game drive. Saturday evening - six course dinner with unlimited wine and beer on the Royal Livingstone Express (http://www.royal-livingstone-express.com/).  Sunday - breakfast on Livingstone Island and trip to Devil's Pool. The new itinerary was great and provided me with new experiences my fourth time in Livingstone.

The game drive took place in Mosi-oa-Tunya National Park. The drive was 3 hours and Mom and I were the only ones in the 4 x 4 vehicle. Usually one can see rhino, buffalo, hippo, birds, zebras, giraffes and elephants on the drive.  However, many of the "big" animals stayed camouflaged and away from our view. We did, however, see more zebras, impala, kudu, birds, hippos sun-bathing and warthogs. It was a beautiful day and a nice ride. Our driver, Humble, provided insight on many of the plants and trees we passed were used in natural remedies in the village. At the end of the game drive, we sat down by the Zambezi, enjoyed water, talked a bit more and then returned to the Avani to get ready for the evening out.

Mom and I returned to the Avani, dusted ourselves off and dressed for our experience on the Royal Livingstone Express.  The experience promised not only a gourmet six-course meal but also unlimited wine and beer, light snacks and  to temporarily stop on the Victoria Falls Bridge to see the sunset.

Upon boarding we were greeting with a drink of our choice.  We boarded the train, found a seat and indulged in olives, warm nut variety and homemade chips.  We sparked conversation with those sitting next to us - many were on the train for a romantic dinner with one couple celebrating their recent engagement.

Moving forward ...

Mom and I enjoyed a few drinks, conversation and views from the train as it worked its way through the countryside and toward the Victoria Falls Bridge. Once at the bridge we snapped photos over the falls, in 'no man's land' (a small piece of unclaimed land between Zambia and Zimbabwe) and of course, bought copper bracelets from merchants on the bridge.

On the way back from the sunset views we sat down for the promised gourmet six-course dinner.  The menu was as follows:

• Cold cauliflower and coconut soup.  Review:  NOT our thing.  First, it was cold.  Second, it was bland.
• Salmon fish cake served with chili sauce and beetroot. Review:  very fish. Also, while it was not supposed to be cold, it was served cold which was disappointing.
• Mushroom risotto.  Review:  while both Mom and I do not like mushrooms, this was very good!  Well seasoned, served warm, nice texture and really great flavor.  
• Slow roasted lamb shoulder with rosemary, served with polenta cake and balsamic jus. Review: WOW!  This was VERY good!  I wish I skipped the first two in an effort to save room for the main course!  I tried (tried very hard) to finish this course but my tummy just said no haha The lamb was perfectly prepared, juicy, and with amazing flavor.  Can you tell this was my favorite dish?
• Lemon tart with lemon sorbet.  Review:  again, I was full so only sampled the tart.  The filling was too tart for me but the crust was delicious!  The lemon sorbet was perfect and a great way to ease some of the 'full' feeling.
• Coffee or tea served with petit fours.  Review:  I only had tea but the petit fours did look tempting.  Mom and I simply could not fit anything else in our bodies.

Overall review:  it was a very nice outing and worth the money.  While we did not like everything on the menu, we did enjoy the meal overall.  Finally, this allowed us to see the falls from a different vantage point for Mom which was nice.  Most importantly, she enjoyed the evening.  Saturday was a success.

Mom reviewing the menu

Sunset

Cheers to a successful Saturday in Livingstone!

We arrived back at the hotel at almost 10p.  We were still pretty full and exhausted so we enjoyed a night cap in our hotel room and went to sleep.

The next morning we packed as we planned to leave Livingstone no later than noon. Of course we would leave after breakfast on Livingstone Island and trip to Devil's Pool.  Now let me remind everyone that I am afraid of heights.  Therefore, I had ZERO intention of going INTO Devil's Pool. No, I simply planned to gaze upon the pool and appreciate its glory from a safe rock in the distance. Breakfast + tour would be approximately 90 minutes so we opted for the 9:00am breakfast.  We boarded a small motor boat and it took approximately 5 minutes to reach Livingstone Island.

Safety first!  Here we come Livingstone Island!

Livingstone Island is historically significant as it is the place where David Livingstone first glimpsed the "mosi-oa-tunya" which is the local name for Victoria Falls and means the "smoke that thunders."

Circled - Livingstone Island

Upon docking the boat, we trekked to the edge of the falls able to experience the falls from the same view as David Livingstone.  There was a moment of silence among the small group.  Not in sadness but in awe.  The view is amazing. In the silence you can appreciate the greatness of Victoria Falls and what those before us may have thought as they glimpsed this God-made natural wonder.  I have seen the falls 'full' so it was weird for me to experience the falls so 'dry' but a rainbow still made its way into the experience!

Mom and I

Afterwards we trekked to Devil's Pool.  Devil's Pool is a deep natural pool created by thousands of years of erosion.  Many people come to swim in the pool and peer over the edge of the falls.  The view is amazing - water crashing, splashing your face, rainbows and the feeling of adrenaline running through your veins.  The natural barrier of rocks allows one to jump in and swim without being swept over the edge.  No, I personally experienced none of that.  Scroll up - I am afraid of heights LOL so I paid our tour guide to 1) guard my phone with his life and 2) take photos of the magnificent view to allow Mom and I to experience Devil's Pool, safely, from a distance, on a flat rock.  

Beautiful abyss - Devil's Pool

Hello from Mom

I refused to stand up -- even on the flat safety rock.  Can you see the terror
in my smile? LOL

Smiling to avoid appearing frightened haha

I mean we are close enough to the edge!

Over the edge ... 

God's promise

After experiencing Devil's Pool from the safety of our flat rock, the tour ended. Now for breakfast! Good because not only was I hungry but I was hot and thirsty! We walked back to medium size tent arranged near the gorge.  Breakfast was served: Eggs Benedict with creamed spinach, hollandaise, bacon, bran muffins, sweet scones, fruit, coffee, tea and water.  I requested no eggs as I am not a fan. Breakfast was delicious!  The sweet scones were warm and really nice.  The bacon, hollandaise and creamed spinach on the homemade english muffin was really nice. I would absolutely recommend this experience!  It was a wonderful morning with breath-taking views, rainbows and delicious scones.  

Leaving Livingstone was hard but on the ride home we reflected on all the beauty Zambia has to offer.  It was a short but wonderful weekend.  

"...scenes so lovely must have been gazed upon by Angels in their flight..." ~ David Livingstone

Final blog entry detailing #momanddaugtherbonding vacation will detail our adventures in the Netherlands and Belgium.  Stay tuned!